쇄파의 유동구조 및 쇄파력에 관한 연구

Abstract

When the wind blows hard, most waves will break in sea. Breaking waves occur, exceeding limitation of wave steepness(wave height/wave length=1/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency could not generate the breaking phenomena at two dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies. We research how are the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force. We compare the force in a regular wave which has same specifications(wave height, period and length) as the breaking wave. Also the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated by comparison on the analytic results using the potential theory.